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Kanazawa is one of the overlooked jewels of
Japanese tourism - although not by the Japanese, who visit
in droves. Its relatively remote location, off the beaten
(shinkansen) track, has perhaps unfairly contributed to its
low standing among Western tourists. However for those travellers
who want to see perhaps the best-preserved major Edo-period
city in the country (along with Takayama), it is hard to beat.
Kyoto's offerings of temples and shrines are all very well,
but Japanese history and culture is not just about them. The
samurai, the merchants, the geisha, and the lords have all
left their mark on Kanazawa in a compact, easily navigable
central area. Climate
Snow in Kanazawa is famous for rain. A local proverb says
"even if you forget your lunchbox, don't forget your
umbrella". It is never a good idea to bank on it being
fine in Kanazawa, and winters in particular are cold and
grey. Kanazawa is in the Snow Country, the area along the
Japan Sea coast of Honshu where cold Siberian winds dump
large amounts of snow in orographic precipitation, and while
it does not get as much as more inland areas, half a metre
or more is not uncommon. Most of the main roads have lines
of sprinklers down the street to wash the snow away, but
the smaller roads often do not.
The nearest airport serving Kanazawa is in the city of Komatsu
(IATA: KMQ). JAL offers flights into Komatsu Airport from
Tokyo Haneda Airport, and from Okinawa. ANA flies into Komatsu
from Tokyo Haneda and Narita Airports, as well as Sapporo
Chitose, Sendai and Fukuoka. Internationally, Komatsu serves
Seoul (four times a week) and Shanghai (three times a week).
From Komatsu
airport, buses run directly to Kanazawa (50 minutes, ¥1100).
Or you could take a bus to Komatsu Station and a JR train
from there, which is somewhat cheaper and, depending on
your luck with connections, not much longer. Taxis are frequent
though not cheap, and there are several rental car places
in the area.
Kanazawa's train station, a futuristic marvel that integrates
a traditional wooden temple gate with glass and steel, is
located on the West Japan Railway's Hokuriku Line.
From Tokyo
Station, Kanazawa can be reached by taking the Joetsu Shinkansen
(Tanigawa, Max Tanigawa, Toki or Max Toki) to Echigo-Yuzawa
and then transferring to the Hakutaka limited express train
for the run to Kanazawa. This ride lasts just over 4 hours
with a good connection in Echigo-Yuzawa, and it costs ¥13010
each way. Japan Rail Pass holders have to pay ¥1450
each way (The Hakutaka travels on the non-JR Hokuetsu Railway
between Echigo-Yuzawa and Naoetsu, therefore that portion
of the journey is technically not covered under the rail
pass). Alternatively, you can ride the Shinkansen to Nagaoka
and change to a JR express there, or take the Shinkansen
to Maibara and change to an express: both of these routes
would be fully covered by a JR Rail Pass.
The journey
from Tokyo will be reduced dramatically with the extension
of the Hokuriku (Nagano) Shinkansen to Toyama in 2012, and
eventually all the way to Kanazawa in 2014.
Frequent Thunderbird
and Raicho limited express trains run to Kanazawa from Osaka
and Kyoto in Kansai. The one-way ride from Osaka lasts around
2 1/2 hours on the fastest service and costs ¥7640 (No
charge for Japan Rail Pass holders).
The overnight
Hokuriku and Noto trains make daily runs to Kanazawa out
of Tokyo's Ueno station, and it is also a morning stop on
the Twilight Express from Sapporo and Nihonkai trains from
Aomori.
Kanazawa is served by the Hokuriku Expressway, which runs
through the western edge of the city. It has three interchanges:
Kanazawa East and Kanazawa West feed into National Route
8, and Kanazawa Morimoto feeds into the Mountainside Loop
Road (Yamagawa kanjo-sen). The cost for a normal car from
Kyoto-East via Maibara is 5500, and the distance is 245km
(to Kanazawa West). From Osaka it is 6850 yen and 296 km.
From Niigata it is 6350 yen and 293km. From Tokyo it is
11,800 yen and 585km.
The national
Route 8 is also a good option for those on a budget or who
wish to take a leisurely trip, stopping off to see various
sights along the way. It is four-lane for much of the way,
and so passing those slow old farmers in their white mini-trucks
is actually possible. There are other routes into the city,
such as via the base of Hakusan, or over the hills from
Toyama prefecture.
Several bus companies make runs from western Tokyo to Kanazawa.
Two daytime buses and two night buses run from Ikebukuro,
and the same frequency of buses run from Shinjuku. The trip
takes seven hours and costs ¥7840 one-way.
JR Bus runs
four daytime trips to/from Osaka, taking 4 3/4 hours, and
an overnight service, taking 7 hours. The cost is ¥4300
one-way.
From Kyoto
to Kanazawa, several bus companies (for example Keihan,
JR, Hokutetsu) run about 5 times a day. The trip takes 4
hours and the one-way fare is 4,060 yen.
Kanazawa has a decent bus system to help you get where you
need to go. There are three types of buses: city buses,
a tourist bus, and community buses (Furatto-Bus). The tourist
bus makes a loop around the main sights in 15 minutes and
costs ¥200 per trip or ¥500 daily. There are three
community bus routes which make 15 minute loops around different
districts of the city and cost ¥100.
Bicycles can be hired from JR Kanazawa station and due to
the winding streets and plethora of traffic lights and one
way systems are often the fastest way to travel around town.
As the central city is fairly compact, one of the best ways
to get around (at least when the weather is cooperative)
is simply walking, exploring the narrow side streets. From
east (Higashiyama) to west (Teramachi) would take about
an hour at a leisurely pace, though to see everything between
them properly would take days.
Driving in Kanazawa itself is not for the inexperienced.
The old city in particular is a labyrinth of narrow twisting
streets once you leave the main roads, and you need to be
good at judging just how wide your vehicle is at times.
Parking in the old city is also at a premium. However the
newer areas on the outskirts are car-friendly, and parking
is ample. For those using Kanazawa as a base to explore
the Hokuriku and Hida regions, renting a car would be a
good idea as public transport between some of the more far-flung
areas is far and few between.
Remember that
a valid Japanese or Geneva Convention International Driver's
Licence must be carried at all times, and that driving while
drunk results in at best some extremely stiff fines: up
to 300,000 yen and instant loss of licence. Driving without
a valid license will set you back 100,000 yen. Note that
the official "drunk driving" blood-alcohol limit
is 0.25mg, but there is a separate "driving under the
influence" which has no set minimum. Don't do it.
Many of the links below are only available in Japanese.
However almost all major tourist sites in Japan have English
pamphlets, and Kanazawa is no exception.
Exploring KenrokuenKenroku-en Garden. The most famous sight
in Kanazawa, the Garden of Six Attributes is considered
one of Japan's Top 3 gardens. Once the outer pleasure gardens
of the Maeda Lords, it gradually expanded to take over the
entire block. While not completed in its final form until
the waning years of the Edo Shogunate, it still represents
one of the peaks of Japanese strolling garden design. The
way in which water is piped from many kilometres upstream
to fill its streams and ponds before going on to fill the
castle moats is one of the great engineering feats of the
Edo period. In part of the grounds, and with a steep separate
700 yen entrance fee, is the Seisonkaku Villa, build by
a Maeda lord for his mother. Only part of it remains today,
but is a rare example of existing daimyo palace architecture.
The upper floor, with its bright blues and reds, is in distinct
contrast to the muted earth tones of Kyoto style. Admission
is ¥300 for adults and ¥100 for children age 6-17.
Open 7 AM to 6 PM daily. During cherry blossom season, entry
to the park is free and it's open and lit up at night until
9 PM.
Ishikawa Gate, Kanazawa CastleKanazawa Castle Site. At the
center of Kanazawa is the former site of Kanazawa's castle.
Recently vacated by the national university, which took
over the site once used by the Ninth Division of the Imperial
Army, the castle is public space now for the first time
in its 400-plus years of history. The imposing Ishikawa
Gate, so named as it faced the Ishikawa district, was once
a side entrance to the castle grounds, but after several
fires and man-made destruction, it is one of the few original
buildings left on the site, the other being the Sanjikken
Nagaya storehouse near the top. However the long Gojikken
Nagaya that once guarded the castle palace has recently
been rebuilt according to traditional methods, and is open
to the public for a 300 yen entry fee.
The alleys of Nagamachi's samurai districtNagamachi Samurai
District . Towards the coast from Oyama Shrine, this is
an area of a few streets where considerable effort has been
expended in order to recreate the feel of the samurai housing
areas. The fact that almost none of the actual samurai houses
remain does little to daunt the enthusiasm of the tourists.
While historically dubious, it is a pleasant area to stroll,
and the one of the best of the remaining samurai districts
in Japan. In Nagamachi, the Nomura House is open to the
public (¥500), and boasts a small but exquisite garden.
A short walk from there the city has relocated and restored
two ashigaru ( the lowest rank of samurai) houses that are
open for free, and provide a lovely place to rest and enjoy
the peace of a traditional Japanese house. Towards the Asano
River to the north, there are a couple more samurai houses,
not preserved or set aside as museum pieces, but actually
lived in (and not open to the public).
Kazoemachi. A small but very nice area of geisha houses
along the riverbank across from Higashiyama.
Higashi-Chayamachi, across the Asano River. Kazazawa's most
famous geisha district. Many of the tall narrow houses are
still used as high-class entertainment, but the Shima House
(¥400) is open for all to see, and is well worth the
entry fee for a chance to experience its refined and elegant
atmosphere. Quite a few of the buildings have been converted
into speciality shops and teahouses (of the non-geisha variety),
so poke around freely and don't miss out on a cup of tea
and a Japanese sweet (¥500-1000). Behind this area is
a temple district, and the roads between the main road and
the mountain are a twisting labyrinth of narrow lanes perfect
for exploring on foot.
Nishi-Chayamach. The "west" to Higashi's "east",
this is another district of restored geisha houses. However,
this is considerably smaller (and quieter) than Higashi,
with effectively just a single street, and aside from the
(free) information center it's not possible to enter any
of the houses.
Kanazawa Shinise Memorial Hall (Old Merchant House). The
Old Merchant House was Kanazawa's leading Chinese medicine
shop in Minami-machi during the 18th century. The shop was
established in 1759 and provided medicine for the feudal
leaders. The merchant's family was given high status by
the elders of the town. The shop was instrumental in maintaining
the elegance of the tea ceremony, flower arrangement, and
haiku during the time period in which it was open. The shop
currently has a bridal exhibit on the second floor with
examples of bridal gifts and a large flower arrangement
made entirely out of sugar.
Temples and shrines
Statues of Jizo, the patron saint of travellers, in TeramachiThe
river to the south, the Sai River, has on its far bank the
main temple district of Teramachi. One of the more impressive
ones in Japan, both sides of the road are lined with imposing
walls and looming black-tiled roofs. Its eastern counterpart
is the Higashiyama Temple District. In contrast to Teramachi's
straight road, the eastern temples are dotted around the
hillside in a maze of narrow streets. The Kodatsuno ridge
also has a small temple area, dominated by Tentokuin.
Ninja Temple
( Myoryu-ji) - The tourguides insist there is no connection
between the 'Ninja Temple' and actual ninja assassins. But
with 23 rooms and 29 staircases, an impressive array of
trapdoors and hidden rooms, and a sepukku (ritual suicide)
chamber, it is easy to see why people would make that assumption.
Call ahead to book a tour. The tour is conducted in Japanese,
but they give travelers a folder with English translations.
Local lore has it that there was an underground tunnel from
the castle to the temple, to allow the Maeda lords an escape
route in case of attack. However, no documentary proof of
this has been found, and, like the ninjas, it merely adds
to the myths of the place. Unfortunately, the staff have
a well-deserved reputation (amongst both Japanese and foreigners)
for being rude and unhelpful. ¥800 for adults, and you're
supposed to make a reservation in advance, although they'll
squeeze you in if there's space. The hour-long tour was
well worth the price.
Oyama Shrine, on the other side of the castle. Built in
the early Meiji period to honour the founding father of
the Kaga Domain, Maeda Toshiie. It is notable for a unique
gate with stained-glass windows that is a fusion of Japanese
and Western architecture. The back gate to the shrine is
also one of the few remaining parts of the original castle:
a gate from the palace compound that escaped destruction
when it was moved to the shrine. "Oyama" was the
original name for the hill on which Kanazawa Castle was
built.
Tentoku-in, the largest temple in Kanazawa during the Edo
period, it stood at the eastern end of the city. It was
built to house the spirit of Tama-hime (the Princess Tama),
the wife of Maeda Toshitsune (the third Maeda lord). She
was born in 1599 as the granddaughter of Tokugawa Ieyasu,
the founder of the Tokugawa Shogunate, and the daughter
of the second Shogun, Hidetada. It was a political marriage:
the Tokugawa were worried about a possible attack from the
powerful Maeda, historically supporters of the Toyotomi
clan. Toshitsune sent his mother to Edo as a hostage, and
in return received the Shogun's daughter in marriage. She
was three years old at the time (though the actual marriage
was carried out when she was 14), and her arrival in Kanazawa
is commemorated each year in the Kaga Hyakumangoku Parade.
She died at age 24.
Daijoji Temple is an old and active Zen Buddhist Temple
set away from traffic on a hillside. The temple in its current
location dates from 1697. Old trees shade dense moss. There
is a large bell hanging under the gate along the path which
visitors may ring. Strikingly loud at first, the sound fades
to accentuate the tranquility. There are free early-early-morning
pray-with-the-zen-monks sessions for those so inclined,
be prepared to join in with sweeping and cleaning afterwards.
The whole place is extremely "wabi-sabi", spiritually
mellow.
Shinmeiguu Shrine(a few metres up from the Saigawa ohashi
bridge on the right hand side of the road) this shrine is
famous for the 900 year old plus Zelkova tree (keyaki) in
its grounds. The shrine used to be on the banks of the Sai
River, before land was reclaimed, and the tree was used
as an anchor point for boats. Iron bars driven into the
trunk so that boat hooks could be attached are still visible
half-way up the tree. Sadly the rest of the grounds are
used for parking and you will be kept at a safe distance
from the tree by 3 fences: one bamboo, one steel and of
course one made of concrete! |
